Tourism around the world is booming this year, building on several years of recovery from the disruptions of the COVID-19 pandemic. Seoul, of course, is no exception, as any walk through Myeong-dong reveals. Empty two years ago, the area is now full of international tourists and shops are doing a booming business. Other areas of Seoul, such as Bukchon, Hongdae and Seongsu-dong are full of international tourists.

Myeong-dong’s recovery and the ongoing tourist boom are part of a long-term trend. After growing slowly in the first decade of the 21st century, the number of international tourists in Seoul has skyrocketed since the early 2010s. In 2000, 5.3 million international tourists came to South Korea, and in 2010 that number grew to 7.8 million. It soared to 13.2 million in 2015, and to 17.5 million in 2019, just before the pandemic. The majority of international tourists who enter South Korea spend most of their time in Seoul. While not all of them came to Seoul exclusively for tourism, tourists account for a large percentage of visitors to the city. According to a recent report by Euromonitor International, a London-based marketing research firm, Seoul ranked 14th among the top 100 cities for international tourists in 2023. The number one spot went to Paris.

The boom in international tourism has gradually transformed the cityscape of Seoul in the 2010s. The most obvious change is the increase in hotels. Until the 2010s, the number of tourists increased slowly, and few new hotels were built. The surge in tourists in the 2010s made accommodation scarce, and new hotels began to pop up in the historic center as well as convenient locations, such as Gongdeok and Hongdae. The increase in hotels caused a jump in international tourists in these areas, and shops began catering to them.

The 2010s also saw the rise of Airbnb, which spread rapidly in tourist areas and transportation hubs, such as Seoul Station. This meant that international tourists began to appear in areas where few tourists had visited, such as older neighborhoods full of one-room buildings and “officetel” complexes. With rising incomes and changing lifestyles, domestic tourists have increased as well.

In neighborhoods like Bukchon and Seochon, “hanok guesthouses” sprang up, while many hanok have been converted into commercial spaces. As a result, neighborhoods that used to be dominated by residents have become crowded with tourist foot traffic, irritating residents. Bukchon has long suffered, but newer “hot spots” like Sindang-dong will no doubt be next.

But what do these tourists do when they come to Seoul? Until the 2000s, their itineraries were similar: see traditional cultural heritage sites like Gyeongbokgung Palace, taste Korean food, and shop at duty-free shops. After the Hallyu boom in the 2000s, the number of pop culture-related tourists began to increase. The “Yon-sama” (Bae Yong-joon) craze in Japan, for example, brought more middle-aged Japanese women to visit Choongang High School, which appeared in the TV drama “Winter Sonata.” Likewise, the K-pop boom in the 2010s brought more young fans to Korea.

Tourism in the 2010s has shifted globally from seeing to experiencing. Instead of taking a tour bus for a quick stop at Gyeongbokgung Palace, some tourists now prefer to rent a hanbok and walk around, spending time taking selfies. As Korean pop culture has become more globally recognized, so has the interest in Korean food culture, and international tourists are increasingly exploring markets, such as Gwangjang Market, that are known for food. Beauty experiences, such as nail art, are popular and cosmetics shops are crowded with international tourists.

The tourism boom has had a major impact on Seoul’s commercial areas, the industry is cyclical. Aside from the pandemic era collapse, tourism is sensitive to economic variables such as exchange rates and airline ticket prices. War, diplomatic strife and disasters can bring sudden drops. The tourism industry is also service-oriented, with many lower-wage workers who suffer when tourists stop coming.

Seoul needs to channel the surge of tourists in a positive direction. The boom has transformed Seoul into a global tourist destination on par with established big names like New York, London, Paris and Tokyo. This is a welcome development, but over-tourism is creating increasing inconveniences for residents. Likewise, overdependence on tourism leaves workers and businesses vulnerable to the whims of a cyclical industry. The challenge facing Seoul, then, is how to develop into a sustainable city that is enjoyable for visitors, comfortable for residents and economically stable.

Robert J. Fouser

Robert J. Fouser, a former associate professor of Korean language education at Seoul National University, writes on Korea from Providence, Rhode Island. He can be reached at robertjfouser@gmail.com. The views expressed here are the writer’s own. -- Ed.